New FMS clutch. This side goes towards the engine.

Clutch alignment tool ( $2.00)
I also replaced the pilot bearing that the shaft fits in to.

Line up the 3 pins on the flywheel.

A new throw out bearing comes with FMS clutch. Lightly grease the pivot points on the clutch fork.

Clutch fork pivot ball.

Adjust the front shocks high enough to allow the engine hoist to fit under the frame.

Check out that new hoist.

Almost there

John was breathing a little easier at this point. (Time for a beer!)

Be careful not to ding the footbox with the air tube when installing the engine

I'm liking that perfectly centered shifter.

I made a tool from a piece of hose clamp

I used a wire brush to abrade the plastic hose This made it easier to remove.

Cleaned up hose barb.

The passenger side header is VERY close to the engine mount. It might need some tweaking.

Passenger side J pipe.

Remote oil filter

Clutch pedal looks a little high. More tweaking.

I made an aluminum spacer to move the clutch cable away from the oil lines.

Clutch cable

Drive shaft.. Does anyone have any ideas about covering the back of the battery switch?

Mass air sensor

Evaporation canister purge solenoid.

My fan shroud was damaged in the wreck. I did a little trimming to smooth out the bottom edge

FFR suppiled fan installed on the shroud.

Throttle bracket

Radiator

Lower Rad. hose

Lower Rad. hose

Ugly Overflow canister. I've got to find something better.

J-pipe after the paint bubbled up and fell off.

Belt Routing with relocated power steering pump and no airpump

Belt number using the AC elimnator bracket and no airpump

Power steering

It's best to replace the plug if it is loose from being reinstalled several times